Abode
of Goddess Sharda At Shardi
Brigadier
Rattan Kaul
I – Mother’s
Grace {Mahima}, Sharda Mahatmaya And Grandeur
I
dedicate this effort to Grace {Mahima} of Goddess Sharda for the benefit
of my and Gen-X, who may not know much about Goddess Sharda and her implied
benevolence to our Sharda Desh. This article is also a gift to Gen-X, like
Naveen, who know more of our religion, culture and heritage than men of
their age. Along with era scholars and personalities associated with Sharda
Temple during various century’s, I have given brief details about them
to make it more informative. Each part is self explanatory with notes to
avoid reference to previous part.…Rattan.
|
Mahima
{Grace}
Of
Mother Sharda. As a young boy
I got used to hear folk tales of Sone Kisli and other tales from
Granny Zapar Ded, but what interested me was her narration of travelogue
of Pandit Bhawani Kaul of 18th Century {Descendant of Pandit
Narain Kaul; who wrote History of Kashmir during Akbar’s time}. His travels
through dense forests in quest of spiritual and literary enlightenment
kept me, an eight-year-old, gazing at her next lip movement, however, it
was Bhawani Kaul’s challenging pilgrimage to Gangabal and Sharda Temple
which impressed me most. At Matamal uncle would hold court at his
Rehbab
Sahib residence and amongst various discourses, Pandit Harjoo Fehrist’s
{Mid 19th Century; social reformer and staunch Vedhist}
visits to Sharda Temple, till he lost his life at the temple, held us spell
bound. Those days Goddess Sharda meant a lot to me, in my quest to do well
in studies. The Mahima of Goddess Sharda also came from our Guruji
Lala
Sab, maternal Guruji’s Nityanand,
Vassa and Jagga
Boui’s, when on Gortrai hand painted image of Goddess Sharda
Gortrai’s
were handed over to me and my siblings. Having been specifically dedicated
to Bhadrakali, family devoted to Chakreshwari, this did not
damper my mental affiliation to Goddess Sharda. But alas, unlike other
places, which I could visit, I had to satisfy myself with imaginative details
of Sharda Temple. Time flew; in 1976, I was literally crawling on my fours
to reach a mountain top in Kupwara District called as Raja Ram Di Lari
{See
Map}. As I stood on top of over 14000 feet high mountain; Nanga
Parbat and K2 peaks formed the magnificent backdrop on the Northern skyline
of Kishanganga Valley {Neelam Valley} across Line Of Control {LOC}; now
under Pakistan. In the process of admiration of this scenic beauty, my
local guide, nudged and in halting Kashmiri asked me to view two other
peaks in the middle distance. Sharda and Narda Peak to the East of Raja
Ram Di Lari formed two twin peaks overlooking Kishanganga River and
dense forests on Northern slopes. Along forward slopes of these twin-peaks
I could see, through binoculars, two major structures with a narrow walled
passage leading to it. Kishanganga River flowed few hundred feet below
with many more rivulets, small and big, racing to merge with the river.
He was pointing out Sharda temple to me and to its immediate west was a
fort like structure, now in ruins, called the Sirhasila Castle. As I bowed
in obeisance, the accounts ingrained in childhood kaleidoscopically came
back. Months later I was over the area in a helicopter and my pilot colleagues
made it point to remain hovering over the area to enable me to have more
look of the Temple. As we did so, hymn to Sharda; “Sharda Varda Devi
Mookshidata Saraswati, Sharneyetrambike Gauri Narayani…Namostute, Namastasyey,
Namastaseyey, Namastaseyey, Nammo Namahah” came out loudly from
my lips, much to the amazement of my pilot colleagues. During next two
years stint in the valley, as a foot soldier, I trudged almost all the
area notably those associated with Sharda Pilgrimage. Wangat Temples {Sodaritirath;
Narannag}, Mohanmarg {Gangabal}; Bandipur, Wullar, Gurez, Machel, Putta
Khan {North of Wullar Lake}, Saadamalyun, Gushi, Rangwar, Kralpura, Kupwara,
Keran {All near to Sharda Temple} and finally Handwara, Bhadrakali, Kazinag,
Nastachun Pass and Karnah {Titwal; Northwest of Kupwara}. The dye had been
cast; narration’s of Bhawani and Harjoo’s travelogue got translated into
real landmarks and did not remain fiction. Study of our history, religious
places, translated scriptures, over the decades and inclination brought
me to a stage that I could understand these accounts better. With maze
of accounts, folklore and myths; Sharda Temple had become epicenter of
religious philosophy, Avtar’s, Sage’s, King’s, Visitor’s, River’s,
Chronicler’s accounts; yet the antiquity and Mahima of the temple,
deity, pilgrimage account and changes, over the centuries, remained obscure,
mostly hazy, or attributed to different sage’s, scholar’s etc. Possibly
truth and facts were casualty while draped fiction held sway.
Temple
Of Goddess Sharda. Kashmir has been known as Sharda Desh {Abode
of Goddess Sharda - though many chroniclers like Kalhan refer to it by
‘ The land of Aryans’ {Kalhan’s Rajtarangini Verse 341 Book I};
named after presiding deity of learning and fine arts. Sharda not only
is important as a temple, but in her triple form of Sharda, Narda or Saraswati
and Vaghdevi; giving impetus and excellence to Kashmiri learning. Temple
of Sharda is located in Neelam Valley {Upper Kishanganga}, few Kilometers
from Line Of Control {LOC}, in Pakistan Occupied Kashmir {POK} in a small
village called Shardi; near the confluence of Kishanganga {Referred, wrongly
though, as Maha Sindhu, Sindhu Ganga, Parvati Ganga}, Saraswati
{Referred also as Kalnotri}and Madhumati Rivers. Its location can be fixed
Northwest of Gangabal and North of Lolab Valley/ Wular Lake. Shardi, a
small village gets its name from Sharda and is connected by road running
along North bank of Kishanganga to Muzzafarabad {where Kishanganga River
meets Vitasta {Jhelum}} called Neelam Valley Road. One has to cross Kishanganga
to reach Shardi or Sharda Temple if travelling along this road. From the
valley one has to cross Shamsabari Range and descend nearly to the level
of Kishanganga River and then move East along a foot/pony track. The main
temple rises prominently on the lower slopes of Sharda Peak {Point 3287
Metres also called Domel Baihik}; Narda Peak {Point 3805 Metres also called
Katsil} is just East of it, higher in height but on the same ridge line.
The twin-peaks are magnificent and prominent, even though to the South
of the temple. The view from the Temple towards North would be splendid
with Nanga Parbat and K2 Range paying obeisance to the Goddess from their
towering heights. There are pine clad mountain slope between the temple
and twinpeaks {Forest cover in the area, more so in the vicinity of the
temple, has diminished and is sparse above the line of temple}. Madhumati
and Saraswati Rivers, flowing on either side of Sharda Temple, join Kishanganga
closer to the temple and pilgrims refer the confluence as Sharda Sangam. Kalhan; author of Rajatarangini, in his introductory part on the
vale of Kashmir {Verses 28 to 38 Book I} says thus ‘ Where by visiting
the Goddess of Sharda one gets in moment to the river Madhumati and the
Saraswati adored by the poets’ {Verse 37 Book I}. The reference is to the
mahima
of Sharda but has not used River prefix with Saraswati and apparently refers
to Goddess Saraswati; other form of Sharda. Auriel Stein, who translated
Rajtarangini
in
English, however, prefixes Saraswati with River in brackets; connoting
his ‘own’ interpretation of River and NOT Goddess Saraswati. Apparently
he has missed nuances of Saraswati as Goddess. Rajtarangini means‘
River
of Kings’; 8000 verses, in eight parts, of high poetic merit in
Sanskrit; written between 1148-1150 AD, covers a period of 3050 years with
dated accounts from AD 813 onwards with eighth part being exhaustive.Kalhan
was born in the beginning of 12th Century, his father was a Kashmiri nobleman
during the reign of King Harsha {1089-1101 AD. Rajatarangini has
been updated from time to time, even under Muslim rule; by Jonaraja up
to 1459 AD; Shrivara 1487AD; Prajya Bhatta {under Akbar’s orders} 1514
AD; Shuka upto 1586 AD. Various other historians under Mughals {including
Narain Kaul and Anand Kaul} brought it up to ending 1785; Abul Fazal’s
Aine-a-
Akbari is also notable amongst them. Kalhan gives the location of the
shrine with reference to the siege of Sirhasila Castle {Rajtarangini},
which took place in his own time {12th Century} and ‘where
a huge temple complex came up’. His reference indicates location of
the shrine in proximity to Sirhasila Castle/Fort {also called Sirhala}
West of Sharda {Sirhasila Fort encircled by Kishanganga, Madhumati and
Muktasri – Rajatarangini Verse 2492 Book VIII. Sirhasila is literally
next to the temple, now in ruins, overlooking Kishanganga and, as per Kalhan,
encircled by Kishanganga, Madhumati and Muktasri {Verse 2492 Book VIII}.
While Kishanganga and Madhumati River referred to is next to Sharda { not
to be mistaken with Madhumati of Bandipore}; Muktasri River would be further
West and only guess can be made of its location closer to Tejjan. This
interpretation is because he specifically refers to encirclement / isolation
of Sirhasila Castle , which is possible only if these rivers are in a ring
around it. He also refers to the flight of Bhoja, the defiant Dard
Warlord of the area, from the battle scene, towards the shrine, which he
refers as ‘Sanctuary of Goddess Sharda’ {Verse 2706 Book VIII}’; which
also indicates proximity of the two landmarks. Kalhan, in his account of
King Lalitaditya's reign, refers to visit by certain followers of a King
of Bengal under the pretense of visit to Sharda to avenge the murder of
their king by Lalitaditya but enter Parihaskeshwa temple and get killed
{Verse 325/326 Book IV Rajatarangini} { Lalitaditya had conquered
Bengal {Gauda} during his reign}. This indicates that mahima of
the shrine had spread to far off regions and that the shrine existed prior
to the reign of King Lalitaditya of Kashmir {Lalitaditya Muktapida (697
AD to 733 AD) - Karkota Dynasty; A successful military expeditionary. Lalitaditya
was equally a great builder; he built very fine and massive temples including
world famous sun temple at Martand, his capital near the sacred shrine
of Khir-Bhawani naming it Parihaspur {City of Pleasure}. He was also known
as Mukhtapida; even 'Sharda' Mukhtapida in later chronicles. Though himself
a Vaishnavite Hindu, he erected a massive Buddhist Vihara at Parihasapur,
though Buddhism had started to wane in the valley by then}. Famous chronicler
Al-Biruni describes shrine’s position in ‘Inner Kashmir’ about two to three
days journey towards the mountains of Bolor {Bolor referred by him in his
chronicle has been interpreted towards Upper Indus between Gilgit and Ladakh,
however, reference to Bolor to mean ‘Wulor’ or ‘Wular Lake’ is most likely,
as Gilgit and Ladakh are far away from Sharda and the area was never known
as Bolor. Also the phoentics of ‘Wulor’ in Arabic is somewhat closer to
‘Bolor’}. He speaks of the shrine; ‘much venerated and frequented by pilgrims
as those of
Surya at Multan {Pakistan},
VishnuChakraswamin{Thaneswar -Kurukshetra} and the
Linga of Somnath {Gujarat}{Al-Biruni (996-1031
AD} visited Kashmir in 1030 AD and this description is not that
of his visit as their is no evidence of his having visited the shrine. Al-Biruni , an Arab scholar who came to India with Mahmud of
Gazni, in
the beginning of 11th Century AD stayed in India for a number of years.
He wrote a book, which gives account of social, political and economic
conditions of then India. He was killed in a battle in 1031 AD; just a
year after visiting Kashmir}. Another Kashmiri scholar, Bilhana, in his
description of Pravarapura {Srinagar}, while in Deccan, mentions Sharda
tirath shrine {Not temple} and ascribes excellence of learning of the
people to Sharda {Bilhana ; Born 1041 AD at Khonmukh {Khonmoh}; fellow-poet
of Kalhan. Bilhana left Kashmir in 1066 AD during the reign of King Kalsa
{1063 to 1089 AD} to become Chief Pandit of Karnata {Present Day Mysore}.
Unheard of after 1088 AD, wrote
VikramankaDevaCaritam, a historical
compendum of poems narrating the expedition of King Vikramaditya VI of
Kalyan {1076 A.D. to 1127 AD}{Verse 937 Book VII Rajtarangini}.
In 1877 AD an old palm-leaf edition of VikramankaDevaCaritam was
found in Jaisalmer {Rajasthan}. Other known compositions to his credit
are; CaurPanchasika- a lyric of fifty stanzas and Karna Sundari
a drama of four acts}. Another reference to Sharda’s form is found in Jonaraja's
chronicle wherein he mentions Zain-ul-Abidin {Badshah} visited shrine,
in 1422 AD to witness the miraculous manifestations of the Goddess {Jonaraja;
A writer of 14th and 15th Century 1389 -1459 A D,
updated Rajtarangini. He candidly owns that he was commissioned
to write this by Zain-ul-abdin, through the good offices of Shirya Bhatta,
Head of Judiciary. His account covers twenty three rulers of Kashmir upto1459
AD}. The Valley acquired place of pride in Sanskrit, Sharda language, literature,
medicine, astronomy, astrology, religion, art and architecture; all attributed
to the benediction of Sharda. The temple became a sacred shrine to which
thousands of devotee’s from distant parts of India were attracted to seek
blessings. In 16th Century, Abul Fazl {He wrote account of Akbar’s reign
named Aine-e-Akbari} writes; ‘At two day's distance from
Hayahom is the river named Madhumati, which flows from the Darda Country{Dardesa}
{Apparently referring to Dardistan area which was controlled by defiant Dards}. On its banks is a stone temple called
Sharda, dedicated to Durga
and regarded with great veneration. On every eighth tithi {Ashtami}
of the bright moon, it begins to shake and produces the most extraordinary
effect’. The reference to Madhumati is specific to a stream North of Hayahom.
The
goddess is said to resemble a swan, carrying glittering gold washed from
the sand of river Madhumati as her diadem{Madhumati River is considered
sacred stream and gets mentioned in Nilmat Purana 1261sqq. However
this stream is no other than Bandpore Nala {Marked Bodh Kul on the maps
and falls into Wulor {Wular} lake near village of Kolus. This river gets
mentioned in Rajtarangini Verse 1171 Book VII. However, River Madhumati
of Sharda is different which is a small stream getting this name in later
centuries. More on this aspect later}. Description of Goddess in our Sharda
Vandana reads like this {Not in full}; Kashmir Purvasini, Vidhya
Dieyinam Shawetambuj Viharinam, Chaturbuj Dharini… Shattantriveena Vadini…
Mokshadayini, Papanashneemam … Vitasta Rupenam … Himachidit Girishshobinam
… Kalashamrit Dharayae. Translated this means; Residing in
Kashmir from ancient times..giver of knowledge.. seated on a white bird
{Swan}..having four arms, carries hundred stringed veena.. giver of moksha
and forgiver of sins.. just like with grace of Vitasta {Jhelum River}..
gracing a snow clad mountain..carrying a pot with holy nectar.
In South India, where worship of Sharda is equally high, Goddess Sharda
represents matrix of the universe displaying in her hands; jar full of
nectar, book signifying learning, rosary signifying subtle nuances of universe,
source of Upanishadic knowledge and three Shakti’s {Trimurtis}
known as Saraswati, Lakshmi and Iswari. The number of pilgrims to Sharda
was ever increasing during the rule of Hindu Kings, who maintained temple
in a spick-and-span condition. With advent of Islam {1320 AD}, it lost
royal patronage but flow of pilgrims was reasonable even during Sultan
and Chak rule {15th and16th Century}. Fortunately destructive
hands of Sikandar Butshikan did not reach the shrine, because of
its location, where perhaps his writ did not run. It was politically
disturbed conditions during Mughal and Pathan rule in Upper Kishanganga
Valley that had much to do with the neglect into which the shrine had fallen.
Things marginally improved during Dogra rule, however, with 1947 War and
subsequent ceasefire, Shardi remained on the other side of LOC, in Pakistan
Occupied Kashmir. Even today orthodox Brahmin’s in South India, on rising
from his bed in the morning, faces north and with folded hands offers salutations
to Goddess Sharda; ‘Namaste Sarada Devi, Kashmira Mandala Vasini
(Salutations to Goddess Sarada who resides in Kashmir’. In Kashmir
the hymn to Sharda is; ‘Sharda Varda Devi Mookshidata Saraswati,
Sharneyetrambike Gauri Narayani…Namostute, Namastasyey, Namastaseyey,
Namastaseyey,
Nammo Namaha’.
Sharda
Mahatmaya. Mahatmaya’s are
scriptures pertaining to various pilgrimages. 51 Mahatmaya’s existed
or have been traced in Kashmir. Most of these have been extracted from
Purana’s
but many are of medieval period more so pertaining to those shrines which
came up during middle of first millennium BC and later. Sharda Mahatmaya,
a similar scripture, narrates tirtha as seen by Muni Shandalya {Gotra
of Kashmiri’s ie Bhatt, Bakhshi, Nari is named after Sage Shandalya}. In
order to see Goddess Sharda, Muni Shandalya is advised to proceed to jungles
of Syamala {Possibly Kupwara District). There at Ghusa {Ghushi} Mahadevi
{Sharda} appears and promises to show herself in her true form as Shakti
in
the Sharda Van {Mahadevi
- Consort of Shiva; Parvati or Uma,
also called Kali, Durga. Religious scholars, historians {not all} refer
Mahadevi
as one form of Parvati, Lakshmi and Saraswati.
This form of address,
Mahadevi,
is more common in Shavitic variant and that too in South}.The Goddess vanishes
from this sight at Hayasrama {The present village of Hayahom; Northeast
of Ghushi}. The Muni then proceeds to a spring known as Krishna Nag {Marked
as Mari Nag {Point 3601 Metres} on the maps, in which he bathes
and his body becomes golden; representing symbolic liberation from darkness.
This spring situated above the village of Dranga, close to Hayahom
{Many chronicles claim that Dranga mentioned is situated at the foot of
a hill and still bears that name and its location is in the foothills of
mountain-ridge known as Kakudar (Kashmiri); a corrupt form of KaraKuta
Dhara above Tosa Maidan of present day {Tausi
the plain
of Tohi as known in Poonch and Persian Maidan;
thus Tosa
Maidan}, which was a watch station also called Surapura where Utpala
meets death {Verses 140, 1352 Book VII Rajtarangin} along the Pir
Panchal Range in those days. Authors who refer it to Dranga of
Sharda
Mahatmaya may be because of similarity of names; both are widely separated.
Actually it is called Sona-Drang after word ‘Swararnardhanguka’; Swarn
meaning gold and anguka body; apparent reference to Shandalya’s
body becoming golden}. Muni Shandalya then ascends the mountain range to
the North and sees dance of Goddess in a mountain meadow, known as Rangavatika
{Rangwar
Forest, which lies below the pass; Rangwar Gali. Exact location of Rangvatika
remains unknown} through which route leads across Shamsabari Range towards
Kishanganga. He then arrives at Tejavana {Possibly present day Tejjan
a small jungle close to Dudnial, the residence of Sage Gautama {Kashmiri
Gotras are also named after Gautama; notably Parimu, Kak, Razdan, Fehrist}
on the banks of Kishanganga. The sage {Muni Shandalya} after crossing hill
sees God Ganesh on the East {The mountain behind the temple and Sirhasila
has resemblance to Lord Ganesha’s head and trunk. Sirhasila means the rock
of the head; Sirah – head; sila{shila}- rock. Sirhasila Fort/Castle
seems to have got name from Sharda Peak in the Mahatmaya } and arrives
in the Sharda Van {The pine clad forest North of the temple}. After
reciting a hymn in praise of her triple form of Sharda, Narda or Saraswati
and Vaghdevi, goddess revealed herself to the Muni at the ‘sacred
spot’ {Reference is to the place where shrine existed and temple was constructed
later. Legend says that SHE disappears inside a spring {Kund}, now
inside the Sanctum Sanctorum now covered by a stone slab and invites him
to her residence at Sirhasila. It is said that Pitras then
approached Muni Shandalya and requested him to perform their Shrada’s.
On his taking water from the ‘Maha Sindhu’ for the purpose of the Tarpana
{Giving water to the dead}, half of its water turns into honey and forms
the stream now known as Madhumati. It is said that bath and Shrada’s
{Rites associated with dead} at Sharda Sangam {What is meant
here is confluence of Madhumati and Kishanganga Rivers of Sharda} assures
remission of sins. Actually Sindhu Ganga or Maha Sindhu eminates from Dras
and is mentioned in Nilmat Purana {vv297sqq}. This river is called lower
Sindh and finally joins Vitasta {Jhelum. Geographically Sindhu {Indus},
Maha Sindhu and Sharda are far apart. In Mahatmaya the reference is to
Kishanganga River and Madhumati, a stream next o the temple. More on this
aspect later in the article. This custom of shrada adopted for this
temple pilgrimage is not religiously connected with the Goddess of learning
and fine arts; Sharda. Specific places for such rites for the dead have
been designated in different parts of the valley; Shopian, Mattan, Shadipur,
Jawalajee {Khrew}, Khonmukh, Gangabal etc. Most probable reason for this
could be that Pitra Paksh {Annual fortnight for Shradha’s
for dead ancestors starts just seven days after the designated day of pilgrimage
and by that time they may not have returned to their homes. Sharda Vandana
{Hymn} also attributes
Mokshadayini and Papnashneemam {Giving
freedom to soul and forgive sins} which may have also been reason for including
tarpan
rites as part of the pilgrimage.
Aryan
Saraswats are reported to have settled nearly 5058 years back in the valley
{In Kashmir three era’s were dated; Sapatrishi the oldest and current year
is 5058; Vikrimi Savant is 56 years older than Christian era i.e 2058 this
year {2002 AD}. Sakka Samvat was also in vogue but is younger than Christian
era and not in use now {For details read articles by Shri C L Nagri, which
appeared in Koshur Samachar last year}. Goddesses they worshipped
initially were the trinty of Laxmi, Parvati and Saraswati. Manifestation
of Goddess in the shape of Sharda, as goddess of learning would
have been subsequent {Mahadevi in the form as Shakti,
as given in Mahatmaya}. A broad spectrum would thus indicate Sharda
Mahatmaya accountrefers to ‘already manifested form of Goddess Sharda’;
between 2500 BC and 1000 BC, the period when Gotra’s and Vaishnavite
Brahmanism took strong roots after absorbing local rituals and worship
of Goddesse’s in other forms, other than the trinty, started. Sharda
Mahtmaya infers Sharda Goddess had already manifested in the valley
before existence of Sage Gautama and Muni Shandalya {Founders of their
respective gotra’s. Originally only six gotras existed including
Dattatreya and Bharadwaja. Sage Gautama is in the next enlarged
Gotra’s
and finds mention in post Mahabarata era. Muni Shandalya is supposed to
be post Gautama, but closer to the era of Gautama. Apparently Sage Gautama
would have had Goddess’s darshan earlier and established his
ashram, close to the place of worship of the Goddess}. There are certain
indications from Sharda Mahatmaya; it confirms that temple had not
been constructed by then. Peculiar names of places like Hayasrama, Syamala
have been used {Few place names, features given in the account can be identified
today} but others like
Tejavana etc are more scholarly names. Hymn
recited by the muni generally indicates
PILGRIMAGE ROUTES TO SHARDA TEMPLE
IN KISHENGANGA VALLEY
{Not To Scale}
composition
era of Sharda Mahatmaya between 9th and 13th
Century AD, when most of religious accounts, philosophies, scriptures started
taking shape in the valley and many scholars from outside, with fresh strong
Shaivite inclination of the South, visited the valley. A further confirmation
of the era is visualisation of Sharda in the form of Mahadevi {Form
of Shakti}; this manifestation is associated with 12th
and 13th Century AD, when Kashmir had come under the influence
of Shakatmata. Kalhan’s reference to sacred river Madhumati {Near
Bandipore} and not Madhumati of Sharda Shrine also gives indication of
the vintage of Sharda Mahatmaya to the later era. Scriptures and
chronicles indicate Shakatmata influence started during King Harsha’s
rule {1089-1101 AD}{Not to be mistaken with King Harshavardhan}. Is it
that the author, a Shaivite to the core, wanted to project Sharda in the
role of Mahadevi
{Shakti} as per his own beliefs? Or was
it another step to give impetus to ‘Dualistic’ Shaivism in the vallley
or bring it at par with similar belief of the Goddess Sharda in South?
The needle of authorship of Sharda Mahatmaya points towards Madhvacharya
{Madhavacharaya {1199-1276 AD}; Vidyaranya after becoming an ascetic. Disciple
of Sri Vidyateertha (1247 - 1297 A.D}, 51st Acharya of Kamakothi
Peeth. If he is the author then it could have well been composed in the
later half of 12th Century; possibly when he had become ascetic
and wanted account to remain anonymous. There are, however, certain other
points which need to be noted; account of the places traversed by Muni
Shandalya are generalised and not specific, Shandalya is post Gautama and
could not have met him at Tejavana; is Sharda Mahatmaya just
referring to his residence;
Tejavana
after Gautama. These
sanskritised names, with a tinge of Southern bias, are somewhat new to
Kashmiri vocabulary. However, Kalhan’s account in Rajtarangini
justsays;
‘where a huge temple complex came up’ but does not give detailed
account of the shrine/ temple like Sirhasila { This account is pre Madhavacharaya
by about fifty years plus}.
This becomes all the more interesting
that had Sharda Mahatmaya been available during Kalhan’s time, he
may possibly have dwelled on it in more detail, including the temple.
Or
is there any other reason for him to refrain from such mention?. It is
also apparent that description of various landmarks is that of the ones
closer to the valley like Madhumati {Bandapur Nala}, Maha Sindhu {Lower Sindh} and its equivalent names have been created for this Mahatmaya.
Kalhan
also refers to Sindhu Ganga and Madhumati but these are different from
Kishanganga and Madhumati of Sharda.
Grandeur
of The Temple. The temple is
approached from West by an imposing stone staircase from the direction
of Sirhasila Castle/Fort, now nearly decayed, which leads up in 63 steps
to the main entrance of the quadrangular court enclosing the temple. The
stairs are about 9/10 feet wide and rise rather steeply in six flights
between two flanking walls of massive row of parapet coping {Balustrade},
now in ruins. The view from the staircase is magnificent; you can see the
valleys of Madhumati, Kishanganga gorge and also their Sangam. The
quadrangular court, enclosing the temple, is an accurately oriented oblong.
142 feet long and 94 feet 6 inches wide, having proportion of 3:2 and is
enclosed by a massive wall, six feet thick and eleven feet high from the
level of the court to the projecting rim at the foot of the coping. The
later rises in pyramidal form to a height of eight feet above the top of
the wall, giving it a look like a fortress wall. From outside, the walls
appear massive and imposing, as they are raised on basement walls to equalise
different elevations of the ground. The entrance to the central court is
through a gate with a double porch of Kashmiri design {When referred
as Kashmiri design, it connotes design as found in other temple
structures of mediaeval period}. This gate occupies middle of the west
face, in line with the porch, leading to the sanctum sanctorum. The other
three walls have blank archway, standing to height of about 20 feet from
the base to the apex. In the centre of the Northern wall is a small recess
3 feet 3 inches square, containing two ancient lingas, which opens
by a terafoil arched door towards the interior of the court {In earlier
accounts there is no mention of existence of these lingas}.
Sanctum
Sanctorum. In the centre of the quadrangle is the temple raised
on a basement of 24 feet square and 5 feet 3 inches high and is perfectly
plane. The entrance to inner temple is from the west side and is approached
by a flight of a few stairs, five and a half feet wide with flanking side
walls. The cell of the main temple is 22 feet square. On each side of the
porch way are two square pillars about 16 feet high and two feet six inches
apart. The capital of both the pillars seem to have been hewn from a single
stone {This aspect is very important, as similar evidence can be found
in temples constructed between 9th and 13th Centuries
AD}. The interior of the inner temple is a square of 12 feet and 3 inches
and it has no decoration of any kind; perfectly plane and scarcely any
traces of the usual pyramidal stone roof. The only conspicuous object inside
is a large slab, which measures about 6 by 7 feet with a thickness of about
half a foot. This slab is believed to cover a kund or spring, from
which Goddess Sharda appeared to the Sage Shandalya. This kund is
the object of special veneration of the pilgrims. In our Kashmiri religious
philosophy Kund's hold special reverence; like Kheer Bhawani, Devi
Bal, Bhairav Temple Maisuma, Nandkeshwar Temple Seer {Sopore} and many
more. As a young boy I slipped in Shah-e-Hamdan Mosque and saw, from a
distance, enclosure covering the kund in the centre of the mosque.
I believe this kund was venerated before Shah-e-Hamdan mosque came
up. As the conditions deteriorated during medeival era and
thereafter around Sharda, a kund in the village of Tsatsa,
6-7 kilometres from the North edge of Dal Lake West of Burzhom Village}
was named Shardakund and venerated at par with Sharda kund.
Some chronicles mention presence of an idol of Sharda made of wood inside
the temple. From Jonaraja's account of Zain-ul-Abidin’s visit, it appears
that the idol was there; “appearance of sweat on the face of the image
of the goddess, shaking of the arm, and sensation of heat on touching the
feet”. Bilhana, Al- Biruni {Both 11th Century AD}, Kalhan{
12th Century AD} do not mention about this idol or two lingas
but accounts of Jonaraja {15th Century AD} and Abul Fazl {16th
Century}do mention this. This indicates that the idol and lingas
had been installed somewhere after 12th Century {Kalhan} but
before15th Century AD {Jonaraja}; possibly before Muslim rule
in 14th Century firmed in. Such installation of idols or lingas
takes place at the time of Kumbhabishekam
{Consecration} of a newly
constructed or extensively renovated temple. The other factor is that representation
of Gods and Goddess’s in those days used to be of stone, not in man made
form, which stood vagaries of weather and time; which is not so for wooden
idols. The stone slab was venerated as the form of the Goddess and no need
was felt for an idol. In any case, during the medieval age, no firm shape
was given to Gods and Goddess’s and generally they were formless and if
an idol was installed it would have been a temporary measure. It may be
that custom of a wooden idol being installed, from year to year, by craftsmen,
may have been adopted; Goddess Sharda being the deity for learning and
fine crafts. Similar installation of Vishwa Karma, Durga or Ganesha
idols
on Vishwa Karma, Puja or Ganesh Chaturthi
festivals respectively,
has been followed throughout India. It, however, may not be an old custom
but possibly imported in later centuries. A brief and latest account of
the Temple comes from Justice S N Katju, who visited Sharda Temple
in the summer of 1935. He narrates; ‘ The shrine is located on a hilltop
like the shrine of Jwalaji. The steps leading to the top of the
hill appeared to be twisted as if an earthquake had battered them. The
question as to when did the University township cease to exist requires
investigation’. The question remains, if when and where!
Sri
Chakra Inscription at Sharda Temple Sanctum Sanctorum.
We are told of Sri Chakra inscriptions on the stone slab covering
the kund at Sharda and Shankaracharaya {Called hereafter Adi-Shankara}
having taken it from Sharda to other places in India for installation.
In Sri Chakra form the Goddess, as Shakti {Power}, is depicted
in the form of a diagram representing a Chakra {Circular wheel of
life; as understood philosophically}. It originates from one central basic
point that represents the core of the whole cosmos; 3 circles around it
and 4 gates to enter, with 43 triangles shaping the corners of the Sri
Chakra depicting the form of Mahadevi. Sharika, the 'Cosmic
Mother - Sri Chakra’ is worshipped at Hari Parbat in the
cosmic form of Divine Mother. It is engraved on a green, circular shaped
stone of Sapphire. This diagram is also known as Matra Chakra, established
here by King Pravar Sena at the end of the 6th century AD. Bhawani Sahasranama
lucidly explains this cosmic form of divine mother. Descriptions in Sharda
Mahatmaya; by Al-Biruni, Kalhan, Jonaraja describing Zain-ul-Abidin’s
visit, accounts of Abul Fazl’s and MA Stein {1892} do not mention inscription
of Sri Chakra on the slab covering kund. Admittedly Vermilon
and Ghee used to be pasted on this venerated slab, but these could
not have fully covered engravings, if they existed. Chronicles only mention
presence of an idol of Sharda {of wood ?}; confirmed by Jonaraja's account {Zain-ul-Abidin’s visit in 1422 AD}. He talks of ; “ appearance of sweat
on the face of the image of the goddess, shaking of the arm, and sensation
of heat on touching the feet ”. Similarly Abul Fazl {16th
Century} writes; “On every eighth tithi {Ashtami} of the bright moon,
it begins to shake and produces the most extraordinary effect”.There
is similarity in both accounts as far as extraordinary effects were observed,
a phenomenon, which takes places when a worshipper, with full faith, goes
to a shrine.
Sri
Chakra form of Mother Goddess, in her form of Shakti, is associated
with Chakrashwari and newly constructed Sharda Temple at Gushi.
There is no mention of her being seated on the core of a Chakra.
As per our religious scriptures this form is cosmic yoga of the
Goddess, tantric in nature, which is adopted while fighting evil. In another
dhyan
of Sharika, she is shown as having eighteen arms; do they also symbolise
the aspects of Kali with 10 arms and Lakshmi and Saraswati having 4 arms
each, of unity in Her? The principal Kuladevis of the Kashmiri Brahmins
are Ragnya, Sharika, Jwala, and Tripursundari
{All forms
of Mahadevi}, if Sharda was also to be Mahadevi, definitely
she would have also been a Kuldevi. The Shrines of both
Sharika
and Jwala do not contain any murtis but are cosmic Shilas
{Rocks}, which are not man made. That is the difference with Sharda or
Vaghdevi or Saraswati. The name of Saraswati {Vagheswari, Vaghdevi} consort
of Brahma is not much talked about in other manifestations of the trinty.
In
Shaivism the manifestations of Shiva and Shiva’s consort {Parvati or Uma
also called Kali, Durga, Mahadevi} are the prime objects of worship.
There is no reason for Sharda to dharan this form; for in her image
she represents Goddess of Learning and Fine Arts; also amplified by Sharda
Vandana, eloborated earlier in this article. A careful study and understanding
of Tripursundari, Raghnya, Sharika and
Jwala Satotram’s
{Sholaks
in praise of these Goddesse’s} adequately define their role’s as Shakti,
unlike in the case of Sharda. Every aspect of
Shakti {Mahadevi}
form of Goddess has Her corresponding
Bhairava and both are worshipped
together. Ragnya's Bhairava is Bhuteshwar,
Sharika'sBhairava
is Vemdeva,
Jwala's Bhairava is Mahadeva and
Tripurasundari'sBhairava
is Karneshwar. Similarly Shaiva's cannot ignore the consort
of Shiva, the Devi and Shaiva and
Shakta Upasana cannot
be separated. This is not so in the case of Sharda; only one idol has been
noted inside the Sanctum Sanctorum. Two
lingas in the recess in
the Northern wall do not indicate presence of Bhairava, as rightful
place for Her Bhairava would have been alongside; no
Bhairava
is known for Sharda. The ritual of marking a Sri Chakra, by priests,
with lime or white powder or Vermilion is not new and this is what would
have been happening in recent centuries and may have been introduced by
Kashmiri Pandits, who were back to the valley, carrying certain rituals
from plains of India; possibly after 15th Century {Badshah’s
visit} or during Moghul rule {16th and 17th Century}.
Abul Fazl’s account, by reading between the lines, when he describes ‘stone
temple called Sharda, dedicated to Durga’ is not indicator of any
such markings; possibly due to misidentification.
Narda
Linkage To Temple Construction. There are few facts, which remain
to be unraveled as far as Sharda is concerned. First; reasons for another
name of Narda, which is used apart from Sharda. Hymn to Sharda refers as
‘Sharda Varda Devi’ and
Sharda Vandana does not include Narda
address but this is mentioned when Muni Shandalya recites hymn in praise
of her triple form; ‘Sharda, Narda or Saraswati and Vaghdevi’
{Sharda Mahatmaya}. Second, all places of worship of Kashmiri’s
are within the valley; enclosed within mountain ranges of Pir Panchal,
Shamsabari and lower ranges of Great Himalayan Range. At best we have Gangabal,
Amarkanth {Amarnath} and Bhedagiri on the inward periphery of these ranges,
but none across. This must be viewed in the context of majority, nearly
98 percent, of then Kashmiri’s living within the valley. Thirdly, construction
era and person {King, Feudal Chief, Religious Head, Group etc} who may
have been instrumental in construction of the temple remains unknown. It
is all the more intriguing when Sharda lends her name to this Desh,
proudly
talked of from centuries. Kalhan talks of siege of Sirhasila {Sirhala}
Castle {Rajtarangini}, which took place in his own time {12th
Century} but is silent on details of Sharda . His statement is loaded
with some indications by using words ‘where a huge temple complex came
up’, not exists; using this expression with siege without giving reasons
or any more details of the shrine. This siege took place in 12th
Century, when Jaisimha (1128-55 AD) was the King; who repaired, restored
many temples and shrines and laid numerous other pious foundations including
at Narannag {Wangat}. If it was constructed during his time, why his name
is not mentioned, though he does figures closely in other facet of Sharda;
the language/ lipi {More of it later}? Did it remain un-linked to
him, as his other temples? Jaisimha's early days were critical,
because of the preceding civil wars and political unrest. Sirhasila Castle
siege indicates the area around Sharda Shrine to be part of then Kingdom,
under the fiefdom of a local revolting feudal chief, who had to be reigned-in.
From 958 AD {First Lohara Dynasty} till 1150 AD and even beyond, Hindu
Shahi’s reigned in Kabul, while Hindu Kings including Didda ruled in Kashmir.
Both these Kingdoms were contiguous with good relations; exchange of expertise,
culture, religion, matrimonial relations and same language {Upbrahmbasha}
and also shared Sharda lipi {In fact first artifacts in under-development
Sharda lipi were found in the areas of Hindu Shahi’s of Kabul}.
Let us go back to history of one group of Saraswat Aryans having strayed
North of the valley, who had identical beliefs, rituals as that of the
group who came directly to valley {The lost tribe of Jews is not being
referred here}. A variant of Upbrambasha, slightly influenced by
the Northwestern
Upbramhbasha, was common in this area as well and
the country{s} was called Darda or Drava. The spill over of changes in
religion and beliefs from the valley covered this area as well. Dards
have a long history; Ptolemy in his book 'Almagast' has used the
word Daradrai for Dards
of the Western Himalayas. Before embracing
Islam, they were the followers of Buddhism and Hinduism. At present their
major concentration lies in Dardistan (Dardesa); the area to the North
of Kashmir Valley, especially Neelam Valley; Shardi {Chilas, Naili, Neelam},
Upper Kishanganga {Kel, Seri} and Gurez and Tilel Valley. The valley
of Kishanganga, part of a feudatory state, was also known as
Drava derived
from Duranda {Corrupted name of a local feudal lord} as per Kalhana
and mentions that title of ‘Shahi’ was that of Dard and Kabul rulers. The
tract of land known as Keran and Karnaha {Karnah} bordering Kishanganga
Valley, though under local rule, was known to have paid tribute to Kashmir
Kings. Even Lohara Dynasty who are believed to be from the areas of Poonch,
could have had influence in this area, as Poonch was easily connected to
areas West of Pir Panchal and Shamsabari Range. All these factors may indicate
Narda as another name for Sharda in that part of the country {in Darda}.
Sharda
Narda form of combined address being used in Sharda Mahatmaya
reinforces this point; as the shrine lay beyond geographical and contolled
territory limits of Kashmir valley and Narda being local form of address
of the Goddess. Close similarity of phonetics of Sharda-Narda, in the respective
variants of Upbrahmbasha, could be another reason of association.
It is also certain that the people and material {Stones etc} for the construction
came from close by area; rock examination points clearly to quarries of
Ganesh Ghati along the mountain spur called Sharda Peak. In our history
only works of Kings and Scholars have been chronicled and many works/constructions
undertaken by local warlords/feudal lords or chieftain’s remain obscure;
this has also been so with our great Chronicler Kalhan. It may be that
King Jaisimha had to undertake reining in of this feudal lord of the area
as its control was necessary since visitors from outside to the shrine
first reached his court and the shrine was out of his jurisdiction. The
architecture of Kapteshwar temple, located above the village of
Kother
{3
Kilometres from Achabal} resembles that of Sharda temple; simple architecture
and absence of any decoration; giving impression of King Mutskund {1040-1060
AD- also called Mucukund} being the builder of Sharda temple as well. He
being an outsider could not have done so and that too so far away from
Kapteshwar
Temple. Rajatarangini identifies Mutskund, a Gauda warrior
from Bengal, during reign of King Ananta (1028-1063 AD) who built
Kapteshwar
Temple. This king cursed with a pair of buffalo's ears, anxious to rid
himself of this deformity, learnt about powers of Kapteshwar Spring.
The King took a dip in the spring and got rid of his cursed ears. In gratitude,
Mutskund built the temple.
Kapteshwar is also mentioned in Nilmat
Purana, when sage Bhadravasa narrates its Mahatmaya {Grace}
to King Gonanda I {Pre Mahabarata}; associating it with form of Shiva as
a wooden log. Someway Mutskund has found way in Kashmiri way of taunt;
Mushtand
word commonly used for hefty/ugly specimen, in disdain. It may be that
the design of this temple could have been taken back home by one of the
pilgrims. In all probability, nearing certainty, the temple of Sharda in
the form described, was constructed in 12th Century {Somewhere
after mid Century} during the reign of Jaisimha; by a warlord of the Kishanganga
Valley, a strong devotee of Sharda, whose ancestors too were Saraswat Brahmins
and in fact de-facto Kashmiri Pandit. Though Sharda temple like Shankaracharaya
Temple {Gopadiri}, Chakreshwari,
Jwala temples is on a hill,
its stairs, flanking walls, massive row of parapet coping indicates enormous
effort to cater for vagaries of adverse weather and snow conditions and
not really of great architecture design. This will also answer the question
as to the simple but massive architecture of the temple, unlike temples,
which had royal patronage; like Sun Temple at Martand, Shankar Varman’s
temples at Pattan and many others.
Authorship
of Sharda Mahatmaya remains unknown, but we find some indication
of Madhavacharya, a staunch devotee of Adi-Shankara, being the author.
Madhavacharya is attributed with many scholarly works, longer stay in the
valley and his life period {1199-1276} coinciding with the period of probable
temple construction {not manifestation of Goddess}. He is known to have
moved around the valley, North of the valley as well and such works of
poetic imagination, evident from various landmarks used, can safely be
attributed to him. There is, however, no record of his visiting Sharda
Shrine. It also looks certain that Madavacharya wrote Sharda Mahatmaya
after
becoming an ascetic, taking the name of Vidhyaranya, kept the work anonymous,
as per unwritten customs of ascetics. The hymn used in the Mahatmaya {Sharda,
Narda or Saraswati, Vaghdevi} is in accordance with the hymn in praise
of Sharda in the South except that the local variant name Narda has been
added; another strong pointing needle to his authorship; who found it necessary
to include local form of address as well.
II- Historical
Evaluation, Shakti Roop, Lore And Pilgrimage Routes
Historical
Evaluation of Sharda Temple.
It is from various accounts, chronicles, events, and historical data that
dating of the temple, its construction, changes and other major inferences
can be made. There are four different periods, pertaining to religion variant
eras, which are important for purpose of this evaluation. First, when Aryan
Saraswats settled in Kashmir and Vaishnavite Brahmanism
took shape; Second, advent of Buddhism; Third, Shaivism taking firm
routes and finally changes that took place during the subsequent centuries.
Approximately 3000 BC a Kashmiri clan is named in Mahabharata and Nilamat
Purana, a
Vaishnavite work, declares Kashmir as the seat of
Cakradhara
(Vishnu)
dating around this time{ Nilamat Purana 189sqq}. Saptarishi Era
or the year 3076-75 BC {5078 years {2002 AD} is our current Samvat}
seems to be the time when the Saraswat Aryans entered and settled in the
Valley. This era nearly coincides with Mahabharata war and Kalhan too begins
his accounts in Rajatarangini around this era and writes about installation
of Queen Yasomati on the throne of Kashmir, as the guardian of her son
King Gonanda II, by Lord Krishna. There is an interesting twist to the
group of Aryans, who entered Kashmir; one group is reported to have entered
the valley directly and another bifurcated while moving in the adjacent
plains and moved Northeastwards and settled beyond the geographical limits
of the valley. Another theory is that one group; albeit a smaller one,
settled in areas North of the Shamsabari Range, as there was another valley,
albeit smaller one {Now called Neelam Valley in Dardistan}. This groupis
of interest to us, when we tried to answer the question as to reasons of
the shrine caming up outside the geographical limits of the valley {Read
Part I}.
Vaishnavite
Hinduism. Vaishnavite Brahmanism, mixed with rituals
of Nagas and not so strong Shaivite faith, formed the religion of Kashmiri
Pandits in the Valley till appearance of Emperor Ashoka along with 5000
Bikshus {300 BC}to propagate Buddhism. In later centuries Vaishnavite
faith,
Buddhist and Shaivite thoughts co-existed with Brahmin’s worshipping Triad;
Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma and their Consorts; Parvati or Uma also called
Kali, Durga, Mahadevi (Consort of Shiva); Sri or Lakshmi (Consort of Vishnu)
and Vagheswari or Saraswati (Consort of Brahma). Each manifestation of
these Goddesse’s has a benedictory role; not mixed with roles of other
Goddess Consorts.
Buddhism.
As per Kalhan's Rajatarangni, Kashmir had many Bauddh Vihars
{Buddhist Places of Worship or MonasterIies} even before Ashoka {Ashoka
extended control over Kashmir in 273-232 BC and encouraged Buddhism}. Accounts
of Chinese travelers/scholars to this region claim Buddhism had spread
in Kashmir just fifty years after Gautam Budha {May 623 – 547 BC} i.e.
around 500 BC. Famous Chinese traveler Huan Tsang {7th Century;
631 A D) records that Kanishka {King Kanishka (25-60 A.D), Kushan dynasty;
for the first time Kashmir was linked with a vast empire during his reign}
organised fourth and last Buddhist council attended by about five hundred
Buddhist scholars at Kundal Vanvihara {Jallandhar; some say at Harwan
in Kashmir. However, archeological finds positively indicate Jallandhar}
and donated entire Kashmir to Sangha {Collective Buddhist Organisation},
build many Vihars and raised Stupas {Buddhist Monuments}.
By 6th Century A D Buddhism was almost on the wane in Kashmir,
however, during 7th / 8th Century AD Buddhism had
official protection during Lalitaditya Muktapida {697 AD to 733 AD}
reign. During reign of Lohara dynasty in Kashmir {1003 – 1273 AD}
there was a brief attempt to revive Buddhism but by the time of King Harsha
{1089-1101 AD } it was breathing its last.
Shaivism.
Shri Vasugupta {Around last part of 8th Century}, founder
of Shaiva philosophy and of Shivmat in Kashmir} found seventy-seven
terse sutras etched on stone near Mahadev Peak, as revealed to him
in a dream, which he named the Shiv Sutras. On this scriptural foundation
arose the school known as Kashmir Shaivism, Northern Shaivism Trikashasana
{Trika
System}. Kashmir Shaivism, reached its peak in 10th to 11th
Century AD and continued to be so till advent of Muslim rule; when it could
just maintain its philosophy, could not prolifer and conversions took away
big chunk of its followers in the valley. It may of interest to our readers
that ancestors of many of the scholars who gained prominence in Kashmir
between 8th to 12th Century’s came from plains with
then ruling kings; like Vasugupta, Abhinav Gupta.
Buddhist
Monuments. There are well-chronicled descriptions of Buddhists
monuments established in the valley from 300 BC onwards. Neither Sharda
Shrine nor any area closer to Sharda/Shardi figures in these. Some of these
Buddhist monuments, which are generally talked about are; Kanishka’s city
Kanishkapur known as Kanispur {Baramulla]; 3rd Century Hushkapura
{Harwan – Srinagar}; Pandrethan near Srinagar. Vihars; Jalora Vihara
{Zainageer Sopore}; Stupa’s in Budgam; Parihaspora, Anderkut, Ahen {Sumbal}
and Raithan.
Historical
Evaluation. Analysis of above
periods leads to certain inferences with regard to Goddess Sharda and spot
of her abode. First, around Sapatrishi Samvat 500 {2500 BC} crystalisation
in the faith would have taken place for Goddess Sharda to manifest in Kashmir;
500 years {3000 to 2500 BC} were adequate for firming in of faith and manifestations
of other forms. This period also generally tally’s with similar phenomenon
in India; notably South. Some estimates are of 3000 BC, coinciding with
entry of early settlers into the valley, is too early for manifestation
of other forms {Roops} of Goddess’s. Next two thousand years must
have seen settlement, development, deep rooting and spread of religious
faith with evolutionary refinements during next few centuries; say up to
250 BC. At this time Buddhism started taking roots and attention would
have been suddenly diverted to this new religion. Unlike Islam, Buddhists
did not forcibly convert existing places of Brahmanical worship
into Vihar’s or Mutt’s, but their interest in existing
shrines was insignificant. The shrine where Sharda manifested in Kashmir
{assuming that it was the first spot} would have remained in that form,
with certain neglect, up to around 700 AD; end of Buddhist period. Unlike
Hindu rulers who maintained Buddhist Vihar’s, there is no account
of any of Buddhist Kings building temple’s for Hindu’s, also Sharda or
close by locations do not figure in Buddhists scriptures and accounts.
During this period Sharda shrine must have remained isolated, except that
Bauddh’s
may have continued to pass through this area being on the gateway to Dardistan,
Central Asia, Afghanistan, Ladakh and China {via Karakoram Pass} and was
not under presence or influence of Buddhists. It is no longer possible
to trace with certainty, dating of structures, temples based on ancient
Hindu architecture in the valley which owed their existence to Lalitaditya
Muktapida {697 AD to 733 AD}. In any case if it had been constructed during
his time it would have found specific mention in Sharda Mahatamaya
or in chronicles of Kalhan, Al-Biruni, Bilhan, Jonaraja and Abul Fazl.
The important phase of Kashmir Brahminism came during the period
880 AD and 1320 AD, when prominent Hindu Kings {Avantivarman 855-883 AD,
founder of the Utpala dynasty; Shankara Varman 883-902 A D; Kalsa 1063-1089
AD; Harsha 1089-1101 AD; Jaisimha -1128-55AD}and many more ruled the valley.
It is during this period that Brahminism got impetus; construction
of temples on new architectural designs and styles, modifications, improvements
and renovations to existing ones took place; historians and chroniclers
like Kalhan, Al-Biruni, Bilhan and Jonaraja recorded events for posterity
and foundation of religious philosophy laid including composition of scores
of scriptures by various scholars {Vasugupta, Kayyatacharya, Somananda
contemporary of Vasugupta (850-900 AD), Muktaka Natha Swamin, Shiva Swamin,
Ananda Vardhana and Kallata; great Shaiva philosophers Bhatta Kallata,
Bhatta Pradyumna and Abhinava Gupta, staunch worshippers of Sakhti;
Pradyumana Bhatta, Utpalacharya, Rama Kantha, Prajnarjuna Lachaman Gupta
and Mahadeva Bhatta and many others who made colossal contributions to
Shaivite thought during 9th and 10th Century’s}.
This is also the period when Sharda, as language, had started taking definite
regional shape and many religious scriptures, poems, bhajans, hymns
were composed in praise of God and Goddess’s. Two identical pillars,
possibly hewn from one stone, gate of Kashmiri design definitely points
to an era, when other temples were constructed with similar or close resemblance
to the pillars. Generally this period gets identified with 12th
Century {After Kalhan}, or 13th Century {Before Jonaraja}; possibly
during 12th {King Jaisimha's (1128-55) during his rule of 27
years repaired, restored many temples and shrines and laid numerous other
foundations. Unfortunately they have not got prominence in various chronicles,
even Kalhan concentrates on past than on the ones of Jaisimha’s period.
Surprisingly he {Kalhan} talks of Sirhasila Castle siege but not in detail
of Sharda Temple. Subsequent period from Rinchen /Muslim rule {1318/1338
to 1810 AD} would not have seen much changes or improvements of the shrine,
except that during Zain-ul-Abidin {1420-1474 AD} and later Moghul
rule {1586- 1753 AD}. These two date blocks are important, in that many
Pandits who had left the valley returned during these periods and certain
amount of revival did take place. These Pandits, influenced by rituals
and Vishnu theology, during their settlement outside Kashmir,
brought vigour, imagination and refinement to the rituals and religion
in their ancestral home. Their efforts were significant during the reign
of Badshah and Akbar, but survival, preservation of culture and religion
took priority during hostile environment in later period. During Afghan
rule {1753-1819} things were no better, in spite of Madhurmilans {Prime
Minister’s} being Pandits; like Kailash Dhar, who had survival, hostility,
intrigue and nepotism to cope with.
Thus
Goddess Sharda must have manifested in the valley around Sapatrishi Samvat
500 {2500 BC} and it is around this time that her shrine was established,
where various sages including Gautama, Shandalya were privileged to have
her darshan. Somewhere in 12th Century the temple was
constructed over the shrine, when idol of the Goddess and two lingas
must
have also been installed. The two lingas, in all probability, are
in the form of pindi’s {Natural small rock formations depicting
some aakar {Shape}, depicting Goddess with her consort}.
Lingas
would have been installed at the time of Kumbhabishekam
{Consecration},
as recess in the Northern wall of the temple would have been made, most
probably, during temple construction.
Ram
And Krishna Lore. There are scores of accounts and lore’s associated
with Lord Ram and Lord Krishna, with specific reference to Sharda Temple.
However, we must carefully assess visits of various
Avtars to this
tirathsthan with authentic details and try not to attribute existence
of this tirath
to anyone other than original preceptor. Any deviation
is likely to contradict past history of Kashmiri civilisation and Pandits.
It also overshadows the truth and over a period of time originality of
a fact is lost. It is a common feature to name places after God’s, Goddess’s
and Avatars and then these places invariably get closely associated
with them with lore’s. There is no scriptural, historical or archeological
indication of Lord Rama having been to our valley. Saraswat Aryans settled
in Kashmir just post Mahabarta. Lord Ram’s {Ramayana is pre Mahabarata
by about a millenium} birthplace and life was around Ajodhya {Ayodhya}
in UP and areas in MP. For this reason and peculiar transition of our religious
theology in earlier centuries, Lord Ram does not figure much in our worship,
temples,
stotras and bhajans. This is evident from the fact
that there is hardly any temple of that period exclusively dedicated to
Lord Ram in the valley. Some of the ones constructed in his or his other
name Raghunath,
are during the last few centuries. Irrespective
of this, many places, men or women get associated with name of Ram or Sita
like Ram Kund, Sita Kund or Ram Van {Ramban}, Ram Ganga; even though not
remotely connected with Lord Ram. Some places at Lidderwan {Ludderwan,
See map }, have similarly got names like Ram Takht, Ram and Sita Kund and
Sita Choka
{Chula}. Lidderwan falls close to the route of pilgrimage
to Sharda from the valley. Many pilgrims taking this route were learned
Brahmin’s from plains, who had influence of Lord Ram and Ramayana
and these names would have been given by these pilgrims. Similarly there
is place called Raja Ram Di Lari, a rugged mountain top and close
by few mountain outcrops called
Raja Ramun Lariyan, all East of
Kralpura, just on route to Sharda.
Raja Ram Di Lari is not in Kashmiri
or Sharda but is Takari {Dogri} origin. If one had interacted with local
old people, as I did few decades back, it would have been clear that the
rugged mountaintop was named after a local chieftain of this name. One
is not sure if the same Chieftain is associated with Sharda temple construction
or was he the chieftain who had to be reined-in at Sirhasila.
Lord
Krishna’s association with Sharda temple is also talked about; Krishna
Nag {Mari Nag near Drang}, his stay in the area of Raja Ramun Lariyan;
Kishanganga being renamed after him or wandering Pandava’s having
cut a big stone for bridging Kazinag Nallah called Pandav Pull;
these stones are reported to be lying in a close by forest. Or Pandava’s
living in Tad, Prad villages and finally Krishna having visited
Pandava’s
at Village Helmat {All in Karnah of Tangdhar Tehsil}. Geographically areas
other than Krishna Nag and Raja Ramun Lariyan lie on the
route from Muzzafarabad and same reasoning of attribution as in the case
of Lord Ram holds good. Krishna’s and lives of Pandava’s revolves
around Brijbhumi {Vrindavan, Mathura, Western UP and present day
Haryana}. Even for them, bestowed with super powers that be, they had neither
the time nor cause to visit these parts of the valley. I recall old temples
near Pattan called as Pandav Lari {Buildings of Pandav’s} but constructed
by Shankara Varman (Uptala Dynasty; during 883-902 AD} and had nothing
to do with Pandavas. The only specific mention of Krishna in our
chronicles is when Kalhana describes installation of Queen Yasomati on
the throne of Kashmir {Not dated} as the guardian of her son King Gonanda
II by Lord Krishna. This should not be construed with physical visit of
Lord Krishna to Sharda or areas close by. Absence of any significant temple
of Krishna during medieval age is also a pointer.
Sindhu
Ganga, Kishanganga,, Madhumati and Saraswati. Sharda
tirtha
sounds
incomplete without the mention of three rivers deeply connected with it.
They are Kishanganga, Madhumati and Saraswati. Present day Kishanganga
is referred as Maha Sindhu in Mahatmaya. Actual
Sindhu or Indus emanates from Tibet, crosses Ladakh Range, flows through
Sakardu and Chilas {South of Gilgit} and any mention of Indus or Sindhu
from the valley had to be with reference to any important landmarks close
by in the valley and these were Gangabal {Harmukh} and Wullar Lake. Nilamat
Purana, however, mentions Sindhu Ganga {Verse vv 297sqq }thus ; ‘Ganga
Sindhu tu vijneya Vitasta Yamuna tatha’. Harmukhganga and Nandishetra
Mahatmaya’s, scriptures pertaining to Gangabal and Nandishetra {
Nandishetra is generally area snow clad mountains of Dras, Amarkanth,
Baltal; basically associated as abode of Shiva in these mountains} repectively.
Kalhan pays tribute Nandishetra in Verse 36 Book I Rajtarangini
as thus; ‘ There even to this day drops of sandal ointment offered by the
Gods are to be seen at Nandishetra , the residence of Shiva’. In
Harmukhganga Mahatmaya , the stream flowing towards Narannag
{Called Nund Kol}is referred as Sindhu Ganga, which joins Lower Sindh near
Kangan. In Nandishetra Mahatmaya lower Sindh, emanating from Baltal
area, is referred as Sindhu Ganga. Since Sindhu was referred North of
these landmarks, the first such river in the region in that direction got
referred to as Sindhu. The prefix of Maha
has come to it because
of the gorges and steep banks, which gives look of a big and swift
{Maha} river. The snow-capped mountain peaks around the Valley and
the river always-evoked image of Shiva with Ganga coming out of His locks.
Many of the rivers / rivulets all over India are named with prefix or suffix
of Ganga like Dudh Ganga etc. Early chroniclers noticed traces of gold
like particles being found in the river, which applies to Kishanganga too;
coming through mountain region known as auriferous {Such rivers have shinning
particles like Gold of sand or clay. This is more so in case of upper reaches
of Indus {Sindh}, Lower Sindh and other similar rivulets and streams in
the region}. Surprisingly this is also the case in the case of upper reaches
of actual Ganga and another reason for Ganga suffix. This period of naming
can be dated back to around 800s, when Acharya Vasugupta {Founder of Shivmat
in
the valley} was living on Mahadeva {Mahadev Peak} near Srinagar.
Tradition states that one night Lord Shiva appeared in a dream and told
him of the whereabouts of a great scripture carved on a rock. Upon awakening,
Vasugupta rushed to the spot and found seventy-seven terse sutras
etched in stone, which he named the Shiva Sutras. Secondly, Kishanganga
starts from area between Dras and Gurez, just immediate North of Gangabal.
Northern tributaries of Harmukh watershed {Gangabal} form Kishanganga.Archeological
finds on the Southern side of Gangabal {Wangat, Narannag {Sodaratirath}}date
back to first millennium and hence confirms this naming around 800 AD
Kalhan mentions the name of Kishanganga River at many places and it can
be assumed that the naming of this river is pre 11th Century.
Sharda Temple, when seen from Shamsabari Range, has Sharda and Narda Peaks
immediately behind while temple is on the lower slopes of these twin-peaks.
Two prominent and significant mountain streams flow in this area, on either
flank. The one to the West of the temple ridge, generally emanates from
Sharda Peak. This stream fits in with the description given as Madhumati
in Sharda Mahatmaya. Al-Biruni, Jonaraja's accounts do not mention
Madhumati by this name; it is Abul Fazl, the author of Ain-e-Akbari, who
refers to Madhumati by name apart from Sharda Mahatmaya. Naming
of the stream as Madhumati would have thus been somewhere between later
part of 15th and 16th Century; adequate for Al- Biruni and Jonaraja not
to mention it, but finding mention in Abul Fazl’s account. The reason for
other chroniclers not referring or associating this Madhumati stream with
Sharda pilgrimage is due to the reason that actual Madhumati River, a sacred
river in the valley {Bandpore Nala: Bod Kol}was nowhere close to Sharda.
It is also apparent that this name has been created to have a similar sacred
stream next to Sharda pilgrim centre. The other rivulet, East of the temple,
emanates from Narda Peak and finally all three join at a place referred
as Sharda Sangam. In many chronicles this rivulet is referred as
Kalnotri;
along with Saraswati. There is no mention of Kalnotri in Sharda
Mahatmaya; name alien to the valley but not in Central Himalayan area
{Uttranchal}; like Gangotri, Yamnotri. This name is linked with someone
who must have been adherent of Shaivism, conversant with Central Himalayan
region tiraths {Badrinath, Kedarnath } and then Sharda. All indicators
thus generally refer to era between that of Adi- Shankara’s followers {11th
Century} and Pravachandara compositions {13th Century}
which finds mention of these names. Around 13th Century seems
to be more appropriate as Al-Biruni does not mention of any of these rivers.
Kalnotri name also did not remain for long; Zain-ul-Abidin and Abul Fazal
visit accounts also does not mention Saraswati River, though Madhumati
is talked about. In both cases of visits, eminent Kashmiri Saraswat Brahmin
Scholars, would have accompanied them. There may have been some of those,
whose or whose ancestor’s settlements in plains may have had been in areas
closer to legendary mythical Saraswati River, bringing Saraswati name to
the River closer to their new place; somewhere between 15th
and 16th Century {Sharda Mahatmaya also does not
mention this name}. Appropriately the name fitted well with Sharda; Saraswati
being other form of the Goddess.
Single
account of association of Lord Krishna with the valley is well chronicled,
but no significant Radha Krishna temple existed anywhere in Kashmir in
early days, even though Nilamat Purana describes the
Janam
Ashtami festival in Verses 716 to 722. Similar to renaming of Saraswati,
prefix of Kishna can be traced to around Vasugupta’s time, by then
religious scholars would have found the flow actual route of Sindhu {Indus}
and that these rivers were not connected with actual Sindhu {Indus}. Ganga
remained common suffix, Sindhu Ganga the sacred river mentioned in Nimat
Purana existed , actual Sindhu far away and thus to have Kishanganga;
albeit Ganga next to Sharda. Reason of Kishan prefix may be that since
Nilmat
Purana quotes Sindhu Ganga as the sacred river, once this river was
found, Kishan was one of the Avtars quoted therin and lend its name. One
might get surprised on the nuances and phonetics of Kishanganga and Krishanganga
{If it was to be named after Lord Krishna}. With the development of Sharda
Language and Script, subtle changes in intonations and phonetics
peculiar to Kashmiri’s pronunciation of ‘Krishen’ would have become ‘Kishan’.
Remember as to how Lord Krishna was pronounced, in Kashmiri;
Kishna
Bagwan or Krishan’s being called as Kishan and Krishna as Kishni}.
Thus three rivers associated with Sharda got named to Kishanganga, Madhumati
and Saraswati. We find all these names familiar; Madhumati River existed
{Near Bandapore}, Saraswati other name of the Goddess and Ganga now in
the form of Kishanganga; all making a Sangam next to a pilgrimage
centre. This also indicates, with other events , that Sharda pilgrimage
took deeper roots around end of first millennium and effort was to concentrate
all the ingredients of a tirath at one place. From the trail of
events, religious developments and peculiarities it is between 13th
and 16th
Century when Madhumati and Saraswati names came about;
may not be in one go but generally during this period.
Pilgrimage
Later Centuries. Older and
our generation do not know much about the places and pilgrimage routes
to Sharda, as mentioned in many chronicles. Basically it is because of
cicumastances, lack of detailed, connected and accurate description of
the places. Many accounts route it via or combine it with Gangabal. Pilgrims
avoided difficult gorge route described in Sharda Mahatmaya and
while selecting routes our ancestors kept some basics in view. These were;
beaten tracks allowing use of ponies/horses, halts so planned that movement
in a day was from one to another villages having Pandit community for night
halts and finally took routes which led to existing crossings over River
Kishanganga. Karnah and Drava, though in the domain of rulers of Kashmir
Valley were avoided, being away from the main routes and as Bomba’s, inhabitants
of these places, were inimical to the people of the valley. These hillmen,
in connivance with Dards made frequent raids, robbed pilgrims and even
as late as 1846 AD raided Srinagar. Conditions improved just a bit during
Sikh rule. It is evident that during long period of anarchy, in last few
centuries, pilgrimage to the shrine was less attractive for peaceful Brahmins
of Kashmir. {I have the privilege of being amongst very few of my generation,
to have walked every foot of the area; Gangabal area, Shamsabari Range,
Kazinag to Kishanganga, just opposite Sharda. It was constraints of LOC,
which precluded foray across}. Herewith routes and modus operandi
of the yatra, used during last few centuries, with Srinagar as focal
point, have been described for posterity. Graphic account of these routes
and yatra by two noted Pandit’s of our community, who undertook
frequent pilgrimages to Sharda in mid nineteen century {Somewhere between
1820 – 1850 AD}, has trickled down through few generations. The first one
was Kashmir's Philosopher, Historian, Writer, Artist and Intellectual Pandit
Bhawani Koul {Approximately 1780 –1850 AD} of Gulshan {Hariparbat/Rainawari/Ram
Kaul Mandir}. Second, Pandit Harjoo Fehrist {Approximately 1800- 1850 AD}
of Budhgair {Near Kawdore}; a staunch believer in vedic
rituals, who got drowned in Kishanganga while returning from Sharda pilgrimage.
It is interesting to note that both these personalities were Banumassis,
whose ancestors had returned during the reign of Badshah and again during
Moghul period from areas closer to the mythical Saraswati River Banks and
thus their spiritual connection to Sharda and Saraswati.
-
Few months before the Sharda Ashtami,
word went round about the basic planning of the yatra; dates and
places for assembling were tentatively fixed and passed on. Places for
assembling were; Devi Angan {Srinagar} for areas around and South
of Srinagar; Sumbal and then Bandapur {Bandipur} for those in Northeast
of Srinagar; Sopore/Bumai for those closer to Wullar/Sopore; Handwara for
those from Baramulla /Handwara side. Bumai /Saadamalyun for those South
of Kupwara. Tikar {Tikri}, Kupwara, Sogam{Lolab Valley} were also selected
for assembling points. Approximate dates of arrival of yatra jatha
at these places were also given and generally became places for night halts.
Most of these places had important places of worship, small tiraths
close
to them, which were also briefly visited as part of yatra.
-
Preparation would start immediately after
Janam
Ashtami and yatris would assemble at Devi Angan two or
three days prior to Bhadrapada Amavasa {Amavasa{Full dark
night} was considered inauspicious to start the
yatra. Also journey
to Sharda would take eight to nine days, on foot}. On the designated day
the caravan would move after early obeisance at Chakrishwar. The
column used to be self contained in all respects with hired people for
protection, guards of noblemen, younger ones carrying
lathis and
volunteers for cooking {I refrain to specifically to call them anything
other than volunteers}. Generally at each halt the villagers looked after
them. As the caravan moved towards the destination, strength swelled as
yatris
joined from different areas enroute.
-
Columns taking different routes ultimately
concentrated at Gushi {Gusha} on 3rdtithi
of Shudi Bhadrapada.
On 4th Shudi of Bhadarpada they bathed in the rivulet which
comes from Drang, instead of its source, when special holiness accumulates
at the tirtha. They then visited walnut tree grove, on the banks
of Kamil River, named Rangawar {Substitute for
Rangavatika}.
Next day they moved towards Kishanganga River over Pharkian Gali {See Map}.
-
A parallel route, used by those from Lolab
Valley, crosses over Burhom, Machel {Both North of Lolab Valley} and meets
main route East of Tejavana{Tejjan}; the route thereafter
is common. This route was not taken by many as they would miss bathing
at Gushi and visit to Rangwar {Rangavatika}; considered part of
the pilgrimage.
-
People from plains, outside the valley, similarly
moved via Muzzafarabad over Kafir Khan Range at Reshian Gali, cross Kazinag
Nar at Karnah and cross over to other side of Kishanganaga near Karnah
over the existing crossing place or move along the southern banks of Kishanganga
river and join main route at Dudnial. The distance from Karnah to Shadi
is over 50 kilometres.
-
By the end of the day {6th Shudi}
they reach general area of Tejavana {On the northern slopes of the
hill range, presumed to be the ashram of Gautama during Muni Shandalya’s
pilgrimage to Sharda}. A night halt, recitation of various satotras
in praise of God and Goddesse’s in their various manifestations would end
the day. On the 7th Shudi they cross Kishanganga, move eastwards
along the beaten track along Northern banks of Kishanganga and reach Sharda
tirath
by end of the day. Next day 8th Shudi of Bhadrapada also called
Sharda
Ashtami as well as Ganga Ashtami {In plains of Northern India
this day is called
Radha Ashtmi}, darshan after bath, prayers,
various rituals, etc followed by Shradha performed on the banks
of Madhumati. An evening in the meditation around the temple rounded up
the day.
-
Early next day, obeisance at the temple, return
journey along same route would start and caravan strength would decrease
at each night halt, when pilgrims detached enroute to return to their village’s.
-
During the reign of Hindu kings, such caravans
used to be patronised by noblemen, visitors, scholars and protected by
armed soldiers of that time. Even food and comforts were provided under
the Kings decree. Chroniclers record such an arrangement during the reign
of Zain-ul-Abidin {Who too had visited the shrine} and Akbar {His chronicler
Abul Fazl also visited the shrine}. During Muslim rule and later Afghan
rule, number of pilgrims reduced and not many known organised caravans
except few during the tenure of Pandit
Madhurmilans of Afghan rule.
Not much happened or improved during Sikh rule and it is only after establishment
of Dogra rule and the peaceful settlement of the Upper Kishanganga Valley
that pilgrimage became once more open for regular visits. This is the time
Pandit’s Harjoo Fehrist and Bhawani Kaul made many visits to the shrine.
In case of Bhawani Kaul, he is reported to have accompanied Dogra King
Gulab Singh for the pilgrimage, being a scholar of his regime.
-
Narration’s say that the pilgrimage ended
at Devi Angan again after obeisance to Chakrashwari.
Gangabal
and Sharda Tirath Together. Many of Sharda pilgrimage accounts
talk of starting pilgrimage from Wangat {Narannag}, then to Gangabal and
culminate at Sharda on 8th {Ashtami} Shudi of Bhadra.
Narannag, an important place of pilgrimage of ancient Sodaratirth,
is the location of temples, which are commonly known as the Wangat temples.
In ancient times, it was called Sodaratirth and the sanctity is
derived from the existence of a large spring, Sodaranag. King Jayasimha
{12th Century} consecrated a linga of Shiva called Bhutesvara
here. His Prime Minister Srngara, would spend great sums to make available
ample provisions for celebration on Asadha Purnamashi and Ganga
Ashtami at the shrine. Gangabal {also referred as Harmukh} has lake
surrounded by mountains all around and is a holy place for immersion of
ashes of the dead; on
Ganga Ashtami {8th ShudiBhadra
}. After consigning ashes of their dead relatives in the Gangabal Lake,
pilgrims made it a point to offer worship on return journey at Wangat {Narannag}
and for religious beliefs Ruch Kaam; auspicious work cannot be part
or combined with pilgrimage to temple like Sharda. A look at the map and
terrain will also indicate that Gangabal Lake trek itself is tortuous and
would take many days and it is humanly impossible to combine it with pilgrimage
to Sharda, more so day of pilgrimage being same. Few centuries back there
was a catastrophe for Gangabal Pilgrims when hundreds of Pandits perished
due to bad weather and difficult terrain. Pilgrimage via Bhadrakal
{Near Handwara} has similar terrain and time constraints {See Map}; only
pilgrims coming from Baramulla, Handwara would visit Bhadrakal and
then proceed to Sharda. Moreover, temple of Bhadrakal is of recent
origin; few century old.
Rangwar
Forest, Tejawan, Gushi and Shardi Village. ShardaMahatmaya
account mentions certain places, though these places may even exist today,
an effort is made to co-relate them with present landmarks. There is no
place with the name of Syamala; Lolab Valley itself has a religious history,
may be that Syamala is some tirtha sthal in the area, not
much known now. Gushi and Hayahom villages, near Kupwara, are close to
each other and are on the route to Sharda. In recent centuries Gushi became
a halting place for the pilgrims due to inaccessibility of Rangvatika
and instead walnut grove on the banks of Kamil River near Gushi
was named as Rangwar {Substitute for Rangavatika}. Incidentally
Gushi seems to have got name from a buddhist scholar Avgosh who lived in
Ghushi {Kanishka’s time} and wrote “Buddhacarita”{A verse compendum
of Buddha’s teachings and first of buddhist scriptures written in the valley}
Rangvatika is presumably deep inside Rangwar Forest; accessible through
Rangwar Gali and on the beaten route {Rangwar Forest is a vast and deep
forest with beautiful meadows; wild flowers grow and cover these like a
carpet, Kanagachh - Guchhi {Black Mushrooms} grow in abundance.
Inside the forest is a beautiful meadow with a carpet of daffodils most
of the year called, appropriately, Yambarzalwar. Unfortunately this
area is den of militant hideouts now and much in news}. No Sharda temple
existed in Gushi, but place got importance because of Rangwar Grove and
bathing in the close by rivulet. With discontinuation of the pilgrimage
to Sharda, a temple has been constructed with image of Sharda. It is said
that few decades earlier Goddess Sharda revealed to a young boy that she
was moving to Gushi. Temple construction started soon thereafter and a
known panchang
editor authenticated the presence of Goddess at Gushi.
A close study of the image shows Sharda siting on a lotus, having ten arms
with Ganesh and Shiva sitting below. The date of the pilgrimage is termed
prominently as Sharda Ashtami {Gushi} and not Sharda Ashtami;
but Goddess, omnipresent as she is, would still be at Shardi.
A
beautiful meadow cum dense pine jungle behind the main temple at Shardi
is called Sharda Van, where she is supposed to be moving around.
Over the period forest cover has diminished around this area. Sharda
Mahatmaya also mentions Krishna Nag above village of Drang,
which has many springs and this Nag is probably Mari Nag
{See Map} just close to the ridge line of Shamasabari.There are no traces
of any ruins of an ashram {Tejavana},
residence of
Sage Gautama, on the bank of the Kishanganga; though generally area Tejjan
{See Map}is referred to as Tejavana, giving general identification
of the area. You get magnificent view of Sharda Temple, Sharda and Narda
Peaks, Nanga Parbat and K2 from this area and pilgrims halt for the night
at this place. Sirahsila Castle, next to the temple, finds mention
in Kalhan’s chronicle and siege of the castle was mounted during his time.
This place is now in ruins. There is another fort near Keran, also in ruin
but of later vintage. This was a strong hold of Dards against whom the
expeditions were mounted from time to time. The main mention is of the
expedition against Dard warlord Bhoja during the Jaisimha’s time and finds
detailed account in Rajtarangini. Kalhan is also quoted referring
to Bhedagiri in the context ofSharda pilgrimage which is not true.
Verse 35 Book I Rajtarangini
says thus; “Where the Goddess herself
may be seen in the form of a swan in a lake on the peak of Bheda mountain
which is hallowed by the rise of Ganga”. He actually uses 11 verses in
Book I {28 to 38} to define the sanctity of the Valley and this one [Verse
35}refers to Bheda (Bhedagiri)
tirath {Southwest of
Pulwama in Pir Panjal Range} as ‘sanctified by the 'Gangod Bheda'
spring’. Goddess Saraswati is believed to have shown herself as a swan
in a lake situated on the summit of the hill; the lake does not seem to
exist now. In Kalhan's this introduction to Bheda is named alongwith
'Trisandheya Suyambhoo’
{Another
tirath of Kashmir},
Sharda and other famous sites and not Sharda in isolation. Apparently in
curiosity to add more weightage to suffix Ganga to Sindhu or Kishan {Ganga},
this well clarified description of a separate
tirath has been incorrectly
used. Kalhan also would not have meant this reference to Sharda tirath;
being absolutely far away and in different direction from
Bhedagiri;
180
degrees and in South. As far as description of a lake closer to Sharda
temple is concerned there are small lakes which are sources of many rivulets
but are far away from Sharda.
Goddess
Sharda’s temple is located next to village Sharda, quite close to Sirhasila
Castle and just across the rivulet next to the temple. The village seems
to have come up for those who did not find place in the castle but were
closely associated with it; workers , guards etc. Once the temnple was
constructed it must have been appropriately named after the Goddess. However
the nuances of ‘Shardi’ can be traced to minor variation in the basha
of
the area as prevalent at that time and spoken by the people of the area.
This is more towards the basha spoken in Dardesa{Dards}and further
indication of the facts of the temple construction, as enumerated abobe.
Sharda Temple Connection to Buddhism
and Karnah Artifcats. Traces of civilisation and settlements have been
excavated at a small hamlet Dildar {Karnah - Tanghdhar}, which consists
of Lance, Maze, Swords, stone pickaxe dating 3000 years. A Buddha statute
is reported to have been found in the area. These artifacts, local name
of Mai Sharda, ruins of a fort have been associated with Sharda temple,
Sharda Peeth {Taken as University} and inadvertently associated with Buddhism
also. These relics, crude as they are, are connected with Naga’s civilisation
but cannot be associated with Aryan settlers who had by that time moved
beyond these primitive artifacts. These are also too earlier than Buddhists
era, given their equal progress and abhorring weapons. Given the topography
of the area, inhospitable terrain and weather conditions, it is more prudent
to limit that Saraswat Aryan had mostly settled in the valley portion,
Naga settlements and a stray group of Aryans continued in Kishanganga Valley.
It may be that Buddha statute or relics found at Karnah, in all probability,
being that of Buddhists staging camp while moving to Afghanistan and Dardistan.
These relics cannot be exclusively connected to Sharda temple of that period.
Attributing location of Sharda Peeth at this location, during Buddhist
era in Kashmir, is out of question, as earliest records in under development
Sharda script have been dated to about 800 AD over Northwest India {including
Kashmir}. The language during Buddhism in Kashmir was Brahmi; only around
9th Century AD Upbramasha
took shape, changed during
10th to gave rise to Siddha-Matrika
and subsequently
to Sharda. Karnah relics, Sharda Temple or Sharda Peeth do not find any
mention in Buddhist scriptures, well chronicled travelogues of Buddhist
scholars or visitors and Buddhist monuments of that period. The architectural
design and construction of the temple, as discussed, precludes any Buddhist
influence or hand in it. Even if they had, definitely it may have been
named of Sharda Vihara.
III -
Sharda Script, Myths, Adi - Shankara And Sharda Peeth
Sharda
Language and Sharda Script: Sharda Script has been closely associated
with Kashmir, Goddess Sharda and bringing Sharda Desh designation
to Kashmir. In the evolution and assessment of history of a particular
geographical area, spoken language and its script are important factors.
While language evolves naturally, scripts adjust to spoken words of the
speakers and get constantly modified to come up to appropriate medium,
during which scripts get slowly altered till they get a distinct designation.
Even in a uniform language, like
Kashmiri, subtle variations in
life-style, group behaviour, culture, geographic situation lead to changes
in intonation from region to region. After passing through these stages,
it is given a distinct name; like Sharda and the Goddess connected with
literary achievements of Kashmir lend her name to the language script of
the valley. Unfortunately in our assessment and analysis of the Goddess,
we allowed history of one of the best and expressive language scripts of
the area to be diffused with attribution ranging from vedic times
to Buddhists and then to rulers of Kashmir; measures which corrupt history.
In this part aspects of language, scriptures and impact of personalities,
having direct or indirect connection, have been discussed in sequential
progression. The spoken language of ancient India {Brahmi} is generally
attributed to era of 2500 Years BC; coinciding with
Sapatrishi era.
By about 7th and succeeding centuries gave way to new regional
denominations. By around 9th Century AD Northwestern Brahmi language
called Upbramasha spoken language, a variant of Brahmi, began to
evolve in different parts of this area including Kashmir, Punjab, Himachal
and the Northern parts of present day Pakistan. Brahmi was the script in
which this Upbramasha (and the earlier Sanskrit, Palli etc) was
written {Earliest Brahmi scripts are dated to 5 - 6th Century AD, but references
to it in Rigveda takes it to around 1500-2000 BC}. During 10th century
AD, Upbramasha changed shape and gave rise to a slightly different
and advanced form called Siddha-Matrika. Used in Kashmir during
Lalitadittya (697-735 AD) time, Siddha-Matrika was the lipi
and called as such because alphabet starts with the benediction Om Swasti
Siddham. Shankara Varman (883-902 AD) who conquered neighbouring principalities
including Gujrat, refused to talk in Sanskrit and used the language used
by the people;
Upbramasha . Al -Biruni (1130 AD) also refers to
Siddha-Matrika
as such. Sharda was this denomination of Siddha-Matrika and covered
a vast region extending from Afghanistan to Delhi and its characters showed
remarkable resemblance with earlier Brahmi characters and exhibited several
positive developments to justify a new appellation by 1000 AD; including
Gurumukhi. The earliest records in ‘under development’ Sharda script have
been dated to about 800 AD in Northwestern India. Its characters appeared
for the first time on the coins with inscriptions of the name of Avanti
Varman (855-883 AD}, the founder of the Avantiswami temple at Awantipur.
Coins, copper plate, charter of Hindu Shahi’s of Kabul and Gilgit {9th-10th
Centuries}; the fountain stone temple inscriptions {11th –13th
Century’s} of this dynasty and other extant epigraphic and literary records
of 14th Century represented the three stages of development
of Sharda script. A birch bark manuscript of Munimata Manimala,
which is ‘earliest known Sharda manuscript’ discovered in Kashmir belongs
to this third stage i.e 14th Century. Kalhana wrote Rajtarngini
in Sanskrit writing in Sharda script. Sharda remained par excellence language
and script of Kashmir till the present century and lend its name to the
valley, which bore the alternative name of Sharda Desh and Sharda
Mandala, owing it to deity Sharda. Some people wrongly believe that
Sharda is a script of Sanskrit. Sharda was evolved when the language of
Kashmir was passing into Kashmiri, with its peculiar intonations,
variations and sounds, as a result Sharda language, imprinted with vocal
peculiarities, became unfit for Sanskrit but continued to be used for writing
Sanskrit in Kashmir. Sanskrit language lays emphasis on the sound of each
alphabet; while Sanskrit writings in Sharda script could be understood
but in speech it could not be deciphered. Kashmiri’s had difficulty in
pronouncing Sanskrit correctly, because of lack of knowledge of Devnagri
script and Sharda is so different from Devnagri .
Sharda
script formed a vital link in the chain of communication of ideas, knowledge,
and culture among the states comprised in the Northwestern Himalayan region;
similar to the role of Brahmi and Kharoshti during that period.
Kharoshti
belongs to the same period as Brahmi. It had 37 letters of which 24 resembled
Brahmi. Of the rest, a few (supposedly 3) seemed to resemble the Semitic
script. In Kashmir people irrespective of religion spoke Kashmiri and
signed their names in Sharda; like 15th Century will of Makhdoom
Sahib. Till 14th – 15th Century AD, even Tombstones
in Kashmir were inscribed in Sharda. By end of 16th Century, beginning
of Moghul rule, Kofi and Nasak {Variants of Arabic script}
were used for tombstone inscriptions, though Sharda still existed side-by-side.
Sharda was thus pushed under, however, older generation of priests continued
with Sharda till sixties / early seventies. I was sweetly surprised to
see my horoscope, written in early sixties, in Sharda Script forcing me
to learn Sharda alphabets. AR Stein, who has chronicled his visit in 19th
Century; unmistakably proves this fact, when he says, ‘The continued popular
use of Sanskrit {Read Sharda} even among Mohammadans is strikingly proved
by the Sanskrit {Sharda} inscription on a tomb in the Cemetry of Bahau-
Din -Sahib at Srinagar (A. D. 1484)'.
Adi
Shankara’s Visit To Kashmir and Sharda Temple and Authorship of
Scriptures. Nothing has created
ambiguity in attribution of our religious and scholarly works, worship
places etc than the visit of Shankaracharaya and his being associated with
Sharda, apart from other shrines and spread of Shaivism in Kashmir. It
is not only with us, the very institutions connected with Shankaracharaya
are mired in differing dates, origin, attribution of works and scriptures
and life time events of Shankaracharaya. A brief explanation of institution
of Shankaracharaya is, therefore, necessary . As per various accounts Great
Adi Shankaracharaya {Also called Jagatguru, Great Adi Shankara}, named
Sankara {San means prosperity and Kara means the giver} was
born 2500 years back at Kaladi {Kerala}; son of Sivaguru and Aryambal.
After him started the legend cum pontiff’s seat called Acharaya’s.
His descendant lineage has the Acharya’s of four established
mutts that exist even today; Puri {Est 484 BC}, Srinegri { Est 483
B.C}, Jyotirmath {Badrinath} { Est 485 BC} and Dwarka { Est 490 BC}.The
fifth one at Kamakothi {Kanchi}is considered as the original seat of Great
Adi Shankaracharaya. Guhya-Sahasranama (Sanskrit) refers to these
five Shankaracharaya Peeth’s (Mutts); Kamakoti Peeth as presided
over by Shankaracharaya himself, others by his four disciples; Suresvara,
Padmapada, Totaka and Hastamalaka. In fact lineage charts of these mutts
start from these disciples; dated BC. However, researchers refer to Shankaracharaya
being of later vintage {AD}, though none of the
mutts accept this,
in-spite of strong and irrefutable evidence to prove it. There was and
is only one Shankaracharaya for record; either Great Adi Shankaracharaya
of BC or Shankaracharaya of AD era. Other heads of the mutts are
actually Acharaya’s but have been commonly referred to as Shankaracharaya’s
in many scriptures, chronicles, visits etc. Thus discrepancies arose out
of visits, scholarly works of these Acharaya’s,
mistakenly referred
as Shankaracharaya.
As
per records of Acharya’s of the medieval age of Kamakothi {Kanchi}
mutt,
the name of Abhinava Sankara ; a disciple of Sri Vidyaghana {37thAcharya},
who became 38thAcharaya of Kamakothi {Kanchi} stands
preeminent and his deeds are compared to that of Great Adi Shankaracharaya;
hereafter he is called Adi-Shankara. Some refer to him as Adi Shankaracharaya;
though none of the mutts call / called their
Acharaya’s with
prefix of the ‘founder’s prefix Adi’ . As per succession records
of the mutt, he is believed to have attained
samadhi in Himalaya’s
in 840 AD after 30 years of achararyaship . Notwithstanding
various records of all the mutts, extensive research indicates Adi-Shankara
was born in May/June 805 AD {Lunar month of Vaishakha, 26th year
of the sixty year cycle} and attained samadhi in the month of Dec/Jan
837 AD {Vaishaakha or Pausha of 58th year of the sixty year
cycle}. Surprisingly the name of his father and mother, place of birth
and various events in his life are same as in the case of Great Adi Shankaracharaya.
In all probability this era, religious works of Adi-Shankara, who became
a monk at the age of eight {Commentary on Brahmasutra,
Bhagvad
Gita, Upanishhads etc } fit into the personality of Abhinava
Sankara, who as per records, as 38th Acharaya took name of Dhir-Shankarendra
Saraswati. Many scholars and researchers are of the view that Adi- Shankara
of 8th/9th Century is actual Great Adi Shankaracharaya.
Government
of India celebrated 1200th anniversary of Adi- Shankara's birth
in 1988 indicating his birth in 788 AD. This in a way confirms AD status
of Adi Shankaracharaya. However, all the mutts have lineage
and succession charts from 5th Century BC, even Kamakothi {Kanchi}
Mutt
to which Abhinava Sankara belonged, dates lineage chart to 5th
Century BC. If one ponders; both are Acharaya’s, their name Sankara,
therefore in both cases they are Sankara – Acharaya. None
of the other
Acharaya’s of any of these peeth’s had Shankaracharaya
name, which remained restricted to these two only. Strange, though all
the mutts talk of Great Adi Shankaracharaya, none of them other than Kamakothi
{Kanchi}
mutt
talk much of Adi Shankara. Even in their case the
references are guarded; all this to maintain antiquity of Shankaracharaya
to BC era. Scholars have valid reasons for their dissent and most important
of all that Gautam Budha {May 623 – 547 BC} and Great Adi Shankaracharaya
{509/514 – 516 BC} were around in the same era and operative in common
areas. Gautam Buddha preceded and spread Buddhism, its spread would have
been checked when Great Adi Shankaracharaya was operative and Hinduism
revived. Facts, however, indicate Buddhism flourished till as late as 6/7th
Century and it is after the revival efforts of Adi-Shankara {8th/9th
Century} Hinduism bounced back. None of the five mutts accept existence
of Abhinava Sankara as Adi-Shankara or as Shankaracharaya of 8th/9th
Century . One can even notice this ambiguity in our Kashmir chronicles
also; Rajataragini says that the Kashmiri King Gopaditya founded
agraharas
{jagirs}and built temples of Jyestheswara and Shankaracharya; ‘ Having
founded Jyestheswara on the Gopa Hill, the Brahmans born in the land of
‘Aryans’ were induced to accept Gopa Agraharas
{jagirs}by that pious
King{Verse 341 Book I Rajataragini}. This King is given date of
417-357 BC. Another account says; ‘Gopadri {Gopadiri Tirath} became
known as Shankaracharya after the visit in the 8th Century AD of ‘Adi Shankaracharya’
to Kashmir, when both Gopadri Hill and the Jyeshtheshwar temple {Present
day Shankaracharaya Temple and Zethyer shrine} on it were given
the new name in his honour’. Surely Kalhan would have mentioned this in
his Rajataragini instead of referring it to King Gopaditya .
Shankaracharaya
word is not new to Kashmir, which seems to have been used for defining
even Acharaya’s of the mutts; it may also be of interest
for us to know that two Acharaya’s of Kamakothi {Kanchi} are credited
to be from Kashmir; Sureswaracharya 2ndAcharaya {Samadhi
in 407 B.C}; Sadasiva 17th Acharya {Samadhi in
375 AD}. Also Ujvala Tapati 16th Acahraya
is credited
to have attained samadhi in Kashmir in 367 AD . Another famous
Acharya
of the Kamakothi {Kanchi} Peeth was the 47th Sri Chandracuda
Sarasvati (1098 -1166 AD). This Acharaya was held in great esteem
by our scholars such as Mankha {Srikanthacharita composed between
1135 to 1145 A. D}, Jayadeva {Prasanna Raghava, Chandraaloka and Bhakti
Kalpa-Latika}. Jaisimha, then ruler of Kashmir, was a staunch devotee
of this Acharya, who too {47th Acharaya} is referred
as Shankaracharaya . He traveled widely all over the country, possibly
including Kashmir. Kalhan was also around at this time and wrote Rajtarangini
but
there is no mention. This period of 47th Acharaya fits
in well, when Madhavacharaya {1199-1276}, who came to Kashmir nearly a
century later, would have known of his visit, in detail.
Adi-Shankara’s
Visit: Facts and Fiction. As
per one account of his visit; ‘after he sat on the holy stone slab at the
temple {Sharda}, it gave him vision to compose Saundriya Lahiri
in praise of Goddess Divine Mother {Shakti}; considered excellent
piece of poetic devotion after Panchastavi’. Further, ‘he adopted
Sri
Chakra as reverence to Goddess Sharda and was conferred honour of Sharda
Peeth’. Some accounts give to understand that he ascended Temporal or Pontifical
Seat at Sharda Temple and / or Sharda Peeth {Referred by some as university}
during his visit to Sharda Mai {Little known area near Karnah is referred
as ‘Sharda Mai’ and being stated as the location of the Sharda Peeth}.
Account of his visit has been composed by Madavacharya {1199-1276}, an
erudite scholar, who after becoming ascetic is referred by the name of
Vidhyaranya. His account was subsequently, apparently, suitably versioned
by followers of Shankaracharaya , who had returned back to Kashmir
in the later part of the 15th Century during Zain-ul-Abidin
reign. While in plains they had become Shankaracharaya devotee’s and generally
followed Shankaradivijya; extensive poetic work on Adi-Shankara,
composed by Madavacharya in 13th Century, five Centuries after
Adi-Shankara. It may be of interest that during this Century {13th}
Islam had taken roots, in pockets, in South and Khilji Armies were active
for conversion to Islam. Many of then Hindu scholars of South could not
continue their religious inclinations and found Kashmir an ideal place
and was one of the reasons of extra ordinary number of scholars of Shaivistic
order, visiting Kashmir during this period; even staying back for longer
duration or till they attained samadhi. He {Madavacharya} did not
adhere to his religious activities as given in Sankaravi Jaya-Kavya
{Composed by Anantanandagiri; 10th Century AD} but adopted tradition
of writing flourishing accounts based on Puranic mythology authors,
poetic imagination, personal devotion containing stories and events, which
in most of cases had no reality. His description of Sharda temple is also
believed to be similar, interspersed with ground landmarks, duly assisted
by our own little known scholars of that period. These scholars, who gave
this touch to his imaginative and expressive works, were also devoted to
Abhinav Gupta {933-1015 AD}, a shaivistic scholar of highest degree. His
ancestor Atri Gupta, a scholarly Brahmin, was brought by Laltaditya {697
AD to 733 AD} to Kashmir with him. One of the best authorities on Shaiva
philosophy and various branches of Sanskrit literature e.g. rhetoric and
poetic; he wrote some forty works, including Tantraloka {Light on
Tantra} a comprehensive text on Agamic Shaiva philosophy and ritual.
Abhinav Gupta's literary period extended from 990-1O15 AD. Some of his
other works are: Para - Trimshika Vivarna, Prataybhijna Vimarshini
{expurgated} , Pratyabhijna Vivriti Vimarshini {full},
Tantrasara, Parmarthasara and Commentary on Bhagvadgita
called
Gitartha-Sangraha. It was Abhinav Gupta whose brilliant and encyclopedic
works established Kashmir Shaivism as an important philosophical school
and after completing his last work on the Pratyabhijna system, entered
the Bhairava cave near Mangam with 1200 disciples never to be seen
again. The legend of his entering the cave, never to return has been immortalised
in a folk verse in Kashmiri; “Bahshat Chaat Heth Su Bal Bramchari… Sari
Heth Khot Shivlokas… Yete Khot Deh Heth… Kus Deh Dari… Abhinav Gupta Acharaya
Zan”. Translated;
‘
With his 1200 disciples this Brahmchari
went to Shivlok with all of them in mortal form, who dares such
a miracle. Remember only
Acharaya Abhinav Gupta could do it’.
Sharda
Peeth Honours. Sharda or Sharda Peeth word or institutions are
not new to Hinduism in India; followers of Great Adi Shankaracharaya {Adi-Shankara}
started these institutions, which exist even today and are flourishing.
Called Sharda Peetham’s or Mutts or Peetham’s of respective order
etc, but Sharda is supreme in these institutions. In their religious philosphy;
‘Sarada is Guru Rupini; she is of the form of the guru. Through the person
of the Jagadguru {Shankaracharya who occupies Sarvajna Pitha or
the Pontifical seat} she dispenses her grace’. The legends says;
‘Great Adi Shankaracharaya {Adi-Shankara?} reached Sringeri in Karnataka,
on the banks of Tungabadra River. While Sri Sankara and Mandala Mishra
{Another scholar} were walking, Sarasawani {wife of Mishra} did not move
and stood fixed in the sands of Tungabadra River. Great Adi Shankaracharaya
{Adi-Shankara?} turned back and realised by h |